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Rendering Tutorial Part 1

you will need an understanding of plastering, but if you have watched the films and read the manual plus had a little practice, then you will overcome rendering with little or no problems at all.

cement mixer, wheel barrow, board and stand, ladders, steps, shovels, broom, water hose, levels, featheredges, hand tools, hawk and trowel, plastic or wooden float, scratcher, water brush, sponge, water butt(s)

soft washed sand, sharp sand, cement, reinforcing fibres, plasticiser, water proofing agent, bell (drip) beads, stop beads, angle beads
note: do not use builders sand as this contains a high level of clay and will crack

were going to render the front of this house to acheive a flat smooth render for painting
were not showing the scratch coat going up as weve already covered that in video part 1, although take note: the scratch coat is important in rendering for different reasons, important you will add waterproofing admixture to the cement mix alongside your plasticiser
if you know of a retail outlet that sells fibre bind ( polypropolene fibres 12mm) for reinforcing and preventing cracks this is optional but good practice.

add your waterproofing and plasticiser to your water butt and fill with water then stir thoroughly
add approx a bucket full of this mixture to your cement mixer
the cement mix should be consistant and mixed to the following specs

cement : 4: soft washed sand :10: sharp sand :2:  this gives a ratio of 3-1 a strong mix, you could use a 4-1

Flat Render
Approximate thickness of scratch coat is 10mm, topcoat 10mm, then once rubbed smooth with float, the total thickness is 19mm.
Unless applying render over unpainted brickwork or blockwork, almost every other surface will need to be sealed and glued using PVA or SBR agent.
Some smoother painted surfaces may need a key, achieved by way of clipping hammer or mechanical equipment.
Waterproofing and plasticiser mixed at the ratio required.

A stick and a pencil on one side make marks every 9 inches and make marks every 18 inches on the other side.  A knife handle to mark the lines – a nice effect – blocking.

Once rendered, a coloured render splattered against the walls from 3 different angles.  All windows, doors, soffits and pipes must be masked up.  This is a strong finish.

Pebbledashing is very strong and maintenance free.  There are many coloured stones and can be mixed together.  Dashing and rendering together between rendered Tudor -look beams dashed inside, or top half of property pebbledashed and bottom half rendered.  Sand can change colour contrast.

Ornate rendering coloured, flogged between panels with a flat rendered border.  Carved pictures, templates, stamps and moulds all make a nice finish.

Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3